Review: Spuntino, Soho, London – A Burger and The Boss

Spuntino opened a few years back, and was the third project from the Polpo and Polpetto folk. Spuntino clogged my Twitter feed and crowded the web with reviews. I didn’t go – all the hype made me shudder. But now we are further on up the road (sorry, can’t help it), and this London take on a Brooklyn diner still seems to be going strong. Over the past few months, a cocktail special at Spuntino intelligently labelled “The Boss” has proved too much for me to resist. Yes, I discovered a few Springsteen fans work at Spuntino. And so a visit was finally in order.

Now don’t go thinking I’m writing nice things about a place just because they have a few members of staff with a thing for Bruce Springsteen. Luckily I haven’t had to consider fibbing – I liked it here. I perched on one of 27 stools in the small urban “cool” space and munched through small bowls of popcorn while my cocktail “The Boss” was created – a strong tumbler of pinky liquid – an old fashioned topped up with pale ale.

I ordered the burger, as that’s what I seem to do nowadays. Stumpy is probably the first word I’d use to describe it – a short and fat patty draped with cheese sitting in the centre of a small soft bun. I asked for the chipotle sauce and jalapenos on the side, and once stuffed into the burger they created a great punchy kick. It was good, not the very best in London (that would be some achievement) but clutching a burger in one hand and caressing The Boss in the other…well it makes a very exciting pairing for someone like me. As extras, various salads of fennel and feta broke up the richness of the juicy cheese and meat package.

Heading to the bathroom for the standard post burger wash down I was stopped in my tracks by this striking piece of art on the back door of the second cubicle. In a bit of a rush I didn’t have time to sit and mull over this one to ten Springsteen song list, but I did find a pen in my bag to strike out the Dancing In The Dark number one spot (I know), for Atlantic City. A decision made in a quick panic, but I think it was a decent choice??

1) Dancing In The Dark (replaced with Atlantic City), 2) The Ghost Of Tom Joad 3) Murder Incorporated 4) Thunder Road 5) People That Sit On The Fence 6) Glory Days 7) The River 8) Jersey Girl 9) Badlands

The bill? Reasonable. A selection of little plates for two plus a large glug of The Boss came in at about £50. When I paid, the lovely lady revealed that Spuntino’s card machine is also called The Boss. I’d never thought to name mundane electrical items after Springsteen, but I can’t see any reason not to.

So, if you live in London or are visiting soon, then Spuntino makes a good choice for a meal. But the main reason I want you to visit? That scribbled list on the bathroom door. It needs some love.